Amigurumi

A Pocket-Sized Kitty: One Oval Body, Two Folded Ears

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A small oval can become a cat with just two ears and a few embroidered stitches. This written version keeps the body in one piece, moves the stuffing before the final closure, and uses embroidery for the face. Its round counts have been checked on paper; there is no measured sample or physical testing record, and the photograph should not be treated as proof of the finished proportions.

What this version makes

The body and head form one rounded shape rather than two separate balls. Two small folded ears are sewn on afterward. There are no separate paws or tail in these instructions. Expect a simple decorative kitty; yarn, hook and tension will determine its actual size.

Yarn, tools and abbreviations

Use a smooth yarn that lets you see the stitches, a compatible hook, suitable stuffing, a blunt yarn needle, scissors, a round marker and a small amount of contrasting yarn for embroidery. Work a small single-crochet sample with your chosen hook: the fabric needs to hold the filling without being so rigid that the hook is difficult to insert. No fixed hook size, yardage or gauge is claimed for an unmeasured sample.

US terms: ch = chain; sc = single crochet; hdc = half double crochet; inc = two sc in one stitch; dec = single crochet two stitches together, consuming two stitches and producing one. A magic ring is an adjustable starting loop. The starting chains do not count as stitches. Body rounds are continuous: do not join or turn. Move the marker to the first stitch of each new round.

One-piece body: 12 rounds

  1. Round 1: Make a magic ring, ch 1 and work 6 sc into the ring. Tighten the ring and secure its tail. Mark the first sc. 6 stitches.
  2. Round 2: Inc in each stitch, six times. 12 stitches.
  3. Round 3: (Sc in the next stitch, inc in the next stitch) six times. 18 stitches.
  4. Round 4: (Sc in each of the next 2 stitches, inc in the next stitch) six times. 24 stitches.
  5. Rounds 5–9: Sc in each stitch for five rounds. 24 stitches per round.
  6. Round 10: (Sc in each of the next 2 stitches, dec across the next 2 stitches) six times. 18 stitches.
  7. Round 11: (Sc in the next stitch, dec across the next 2 stitches) six times. 12 stitches. Pause here and add the filling.
  8. Round 12: Dec six times. 6 stitches. Cut the working yarn, leaving a sewing tail, and pull the end through the working loop.

Round 10 uses all 24 incoming stitches: each repeat consumes four and produces three, so six repeats give 18. Round 11 consumes three stitches per repeat and produces two, giving 12. These decreases taper the upper end of the oval; they do not create a distinct neck.

Fill first, then close

At the end of round 11, spread small pieces of stuffing through the body rather than pushing one large lump into the top. Leave enough room to work the final round without catching filling in the stitches. The shape should retain its oval outline without the fabric stretching into visible holes.

After round 12, thread the sewing tail through the front loop of each of the six remaining stitches. Draw the opening closed gently. Take the tail through the closed centre and out through the body, secure it without creating a deep dent, and bury the end. Do not fasten the opening shut and then try to add stuffing through it.

Two folded ears

Make both ears with the same yarn and tension. These are small folded tabs, not a separately shaped triangular ear pattern.

  1. Make a magic ring, ch 2 and work 4 hdc into the ring. The ch 2 does not count. Tighten and secure the ring. 4 stitches.
  2. Continue without joining: hdc in each of the 4 stitches. 4 stitches. This is a straight round, not an increase.
  3. Fasten off with a sewing tail. Flatten the opening and pinch the small tab into the ear shape you prefer. Leave it unstuffed.

Place both ears on the upper body before sewing. View the kitty from the front and from above: their spacing should frame the face, and their bases should sit at the same height. Sew through both layers of each ear base and firm body stitches. Reinforce the joins, then bury the tails. If a tab does not hold the pointed shape you want, do not describe it as a shaped triangle; use it as a rounded ear or choose a separately written ear pattern.

Embroider a face that suits the available space

Mark two eye positions with contrasting loose yarn, then mark the nose halfway between and a little below them. Try the placement before committing to embroidery; moving one marker is easier than removing several stitched features. Work short stitches for the eyes and nose, and keep the mouth small enough that it does not crowd the nose.

Anchor embroidery securely and avoid pulling so tightly that the oval develops dimples. These instructions use a stitched face, so they do not require internal eye washers after closure. A decorative object is not automatically a safety-tested children’s toy; adding sewn features does not establish that certification.

Adjust size without changing the round sequence

A different yarn and compatible hook can change the size while preserving the written counts. Record the completed kitty’s height and width rather than relying on the old claim that round 9 must reach two or three inches. Adding six starting stitches would change the whole increase and decrease sequence, so it is not a direct size adjustment for this version.

If you want a taller body, add straight 24-stitch rounds between rounds 9 and 10, record how many were added, and compare the ear and face placement again. That is an adaptation to assess on your own sample, not a tested size option.

Finishing checks and care

  • Confirm the starting ring and final opening are closed without loose loops.
  • Inspect each ear seam from several angles and check that no tail is exposed.
  • Check the embroidery anchors and whether filling shows through the fabric.
  • Keep a note of your yarn, hook, extra rounds and actual measurements for another kitty.

Follow the care instructions for both the yarn and the filling. Where they differ, use a method suitable for all components. Let the filling dry fully after cleaning. Do not apply a blanket machine-washing recommendation to an unknown combination of materials.

Angelica Nikless

ABOUT THE AUTHOR

Articles by Angelica Nikless.

Angelica Nikless began crocheting in her thirties, learning from her mother, a skilled crocheter. She writes the crochet articles at Quick Crochet Projects.

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