Four Corners, One Repeat: A Classic Granny Square

By Angelica Nikless | Published June 9, 2026

Four corner spaces are the landmarks of a classic granny square. Once those corners are established, each new round adds one more three-stitch group along every side. The instructions below give that basic construction in US crochet terms, with counts for checking the first three rounds.

This is a standard granny-square practice pattern. It does not specify a measured replica of the reference photograph, and there is no fixed finished size: measure your own square before using it in a larger project.

Choose yarn you can count easily

Use a smooth yarn and a hook suited to it, along with scissors and a yarn needle. A light or medium colour makes stitch tops and chain spaces easier to see than a very dark or heavily textured yarn. Use one yarn weight throughout your first sample. Different fibres or thicknesses can produce unequal squares even when every round count matches.

Make the first three rounds before selecting a final hook for a batch of squares. Check that the groups are visible, the corners are open, and the fabric suits the intended project. There is no universal gauge for every granny square.

Terms used in this pattern

ch: chain.
dc: US double crochet; called treble crochet in UK terminology.
sl st: slip stitch.
Space: the opening underneath a chain, rather than the top of an individual chain stitch.

Here, a group means three ordinary double crochets worked into the same space. They are not joined together at the top as a decrease or cluster stitch. The beginning ch 3 counts as the first double crochet of its group. Joining slip stitches do not count as pattern stitches.

Round 1: establish the four corners

Ch 4 and join with a sl st into the first chain to make a ring.
Ch 3, then work 2 dc into the ring. This is the first three-dc group.
Ch 2. Work 3 dc into the ring, ch 2 three times.
Join with a sl st to the top of the beginning ch 3.

Check: four groups, 12 dc including the beginning ch 3, and four ch-2 corner spaces. All four groups go into the centre ring. If you have only three corner spaces, check whether the final ch 2 was omitted before joining.

Round 2: give each corner two groups

Sl st across the next two dc, then sl st into the next ch-2 corner space. These slip stitches move the working position; they do not add another group.

In that corner space, work ch 3, 2 dc, ch 2, 3 dc. Ch 1.
In the next corner space, work 3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc. Ch 1.
Repeat the previous step in each of the two remaining corners.
Join with a sl st to the top of the beginning ch 3.

Check: eight three-dc groups, 24 dc, four ch-2 corner spaces, and four ch-1 spaces between corners. Both groups at a corner go into the same old corner space. Working only one group per corner misses the growth needed for this pattern.

Round 3: add the first side groups

Sl st across the next two dc and into the next ch-2 corner space.

In that corner, work ch 3, 2 dc, ch 2, 3 dc. Ch 1.
Work 3 dc into the next ch-1 side space. Ch 1.
In the next corner, work 3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc. Ch 1.
Continue around, working one three-dc group in each remaining side space and two groups separated by ch 2 in each remaining corner. Ch 1 between neighbouring spaces.
After the final side group and its ch 1, join to the top of the beginning ch 3.

Check: 12 groups, 36 dc, four ch-2 corner spaces, and eight ch-1 spaces. There is one side group between each pair of corners.

Continue the square

For each later round, move into the next corner as before. Start that corner with ch 3, 2 dc, ch 2, 3 dc. Work one three-dc group into every ch-1 side space and 3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc into each other corner. Ch 1 between the spaces and join to the beginning ch 3.

Each round adds four groups, or 12 dc, to the previous round. Round 4 therefore has 16 groups and 48 dc. The four corner spaces remain ch 2; the number of side groups increases by one on each side. Do not increase the starting ring to make a wider square: add complete rounds instead.

Changing colour at a corner

To change colour, fasten off after joining a completed round. Join the next colour in any ch-2 corner space and begin the next round there. You do not need the moving slip stitches when joining directly into a corner. Leave tails long enough to weave through the backs of several stitches after finishing.

For a set of squares, write down the colour sequence and number of rounds. Matching those choices helps, but measure the finished squares as well; matching stitch counts do not guarantee matching dimensions.

When the square does not sit evenly

A missing corner: trace the four ch-2 spaces first, rather than counting every stitch at once.
A narrow side: check that every ch-1 side space received its own three-dc group.
An extra group: look for a group worked into a stitch top instead of the next space.
A tight edge: check the ch-1 joins between groups before changing the hook.

Do not stretch blocking into a substitute for missing stitches. Correct the count first. Shape the finished square using a method suitable for the yarn label, without assuming every fibre tolerates steam.

Finish and measure before joining

Fasten off, weave in the tails, and measure the square side to side while it lies relaxed. Record the yarn, hook, round count, and resulting size. If using several squares for a bag or blanket, compare them before joining and mark the same four corners on each.

For the US/UK terminology distinction, see the Craft Yarn Council’s crochet abbreviations. This article uses US terms consistently.